A long drive for a short, unforgettable stay: the Great Colonnade at dawn before the heat, and a night under the desert sky. This is also where the god the site is named for was worshipped.
Be clear about what is here and what is not. ISIS destroyed the Temple of Baalshamin outright in 2015, gutted the cella of the Temple of Bel, destroyed the Monumental Arch, toppled 12 of the Tetrapylon’s 16 columns in January 2017, and destroyed at least seven tower tombs including the Tower of Elahbel.
The Great Colonnade is largely standing. So is the theatre, though its stage facade is damaged. So is the Arab castle on the hill above, Qalaat Shirkuh, minus its entrance stair. That is what you come for now, and it is still worth the desert road.
The Palmyra Museum remains closed to visitors. The building was damaged by shelling; an internationally funded restoration was expected to begin in January 2026, and rehabilitation of the wider site is estimated at six to seven years.
Palmyra is where Arsu — the caravan-guardian this demo is named after — had his temple. Excavators there found a jar of 125 tesserae, clay tokens used as entry passes to sacred banquets: one of the few complete sets ever recovered from a single occasion.